Tanzania Off on Safari.
19th October to 18th November 2005
Leaving Malawi had been simple enough but entering Tanzania was a different story. In between the two borders we changed our remaining Malawi Kwacha in to Tanzanian shillings at a small bureau de change at a much better rate than the black market which was quite a surprise. I then squeezed the Grommet through the forest of trucks loading and un-loading goods through to the Tanzania border. Blanca then joined the three French groups to go through the formalities. We already had our visa so it should have been a simple process of stamps and then off. There was a bit of discussion about a $25 import licence, the officials refused to accept that the carnet was the same thing. The French had no visas and no insurance, so hours of negotiation followed before we could leave and move on. The French then all went their separate ways and we continued on with the Doiteau family in the lead, in search of a volcanic crater lake and some water falls that were listed in their guide book. With Grommet full of fuel and provisions the poor boy was huffing and puffing trying to keep up with the French in their Nissan with steep hill after steep hill. I think when or if we get back, Grommet is going in for a heart transplant, maybe a 4.6L V8 will do the trick? Well it didn’t take long for us to realise why there aren’t any famous French explorers as they stopped an asked the way from each and every local they passed. I suppose it doesn’t help that only a few locals speak English and even fewer Fronglais!
Eventually they were forced to resort to taking a guide, well two in fact one inside the car and a spare on the back! With the help of the “guides” we managed to find the water falls, but no sign of the lake. There was a small fee to visit the Kapalogwe falls which the French refused to pay, I managed to finally convince them that they should pay at least something thus giving the falls a value and hopefully preserving it for others that follow. The falls were beautiful and well worth the £0.50 fee for two people. With all the hassle at the border and the quest for crater lakes it was getting late, we were in the middle of nowhere at the end of a maze of bush tracks and we needed a spot to camp. The only place available was a clearing in front of some mud huts. The Blanca and Eric went to investigate the possibility of stopping the night but returned very quickly, the locals didn’t speak any English only Swahili! When I was younger I lived with my parents in Uganda and spoke Swahili quite well, but that was in the 60’s and I hadn’t used it since. Still it was worth a try, see if I could give the old neurone a jump start, to Blanca’s amazement I managed to convey our intentions to the locals and they actually understood me and agreed to let us camp the night. As we prepared diner we watched as a large part of the forest across the valley burned looking more like a lava flow in the darkness. What is it with the Africans and their desire to burn everything in site, if they are not cutting down the forest for fire wood or charcoal that is. Eventual the whole of Africa will look the same devoid of every thing but rough scrub. There doesn’t appear to be any investment for the future, planting of new trees or even some form of coppicing.
The following morning we set off in search of yet another crater lake and again lucked out. After Malawi where everything was sign posted here in Tanzania signs are definitely on the endangered list.
Travelling with the French family or as they are now known the “French Explorers” although good company, has proved to be very slow going, firstly the children have to do their schoolwork in the morning, then they need to be fed at midday, they also find it difficult to pass a stall or shop without stopping which when combined with the hilly terrain, Grommet’s poor hill climbing and low cruising speed has resulted in some very short driving days.
We arrived in Mbeya the first major town on our route to Dar es Salaam, with an ATM to get some more cash and check the e-mails at the pitifully slow internet café It was actually so slow we left the machine running trying to send the Zambian update while we popped down the road to DHL to post our old carnet back to the RAC and had just finished uploading on our return! While in the internet we had our first taste of rain since South Africa which must mean the small rainy season is on its way……..well at least the roads here are good and nothing quite like those in Congo! We spent the night on a hillside over looking Mbeya and in the morning went in search of somewhere to refill the French Explorers calor gas bottles but with no luck. The gas isn’t the problem it’s the adaptor to fit the bottles that is, each country seems to have its own unique standard, probably the legacy of the old colonial days.
Soon we were on our way, but not for long as the heat and hills took their toll an old problem resurfaced and Grommet stopped, some kind of petrol starvation. No fuel was getting through to the pump, this meant an early lunch for the French and a quick overhaul of the fuel system for me but again it was nothing obvious and after a short rest we could continue on our way. After what was quite a good days drive we pulled of the road in to a vast commercial pine forest which gave the whole area more of a Swiss feel to it as opposed to African. Camped deep in the forest I was particularly nervous about using the “No 2” our ex-army petrol stove surrounded by all these pine trees and it was definitely not the time or place for a barbeque, planed or otherwise! After a very peaceful night with the wind rustling through the trees and the heady scent of pine we headed up the road to check out “The Old Farm House” and farm shop which also happens to have a camp site and restaurant. The camping was £1.50 per person a huge difference from expensive Zambia. The showers were fantastic, clean and very hot and the toilets though of the “long drop” variety were spotless. Blanca wasted no time and got on with some washing taking advantage of the hot water while I tried to modify Grommets petrol filler cap to try and relive the pressure build up in the tank due to the heat. We checked out the restaurant prices and finding them to be very reasonable booked ourselves in for diner. It made quite a pleasant change to have a little romantic diner for two and the chance for a double celebration, Blanca’s birthday and one year travelling in Africa. The setting was an old African house that had been re-roofed, we were given a drummed welcome and shown to our table in a quiet little corner with two earthenware heaters to keep away the chill. The food was excellent, fresh spinach soup, followed by sirloin steak with stacks of mixed veggies, followed by a couple of spicy apple tarts and mint tea. All the produce including the meat is either from the farm or from the surrounding area. It’s a shame we couldn’t stay longer but we wanted to get to Dar and sort out some visas before the weekend. But before leaving we did stock up with fresh baked bread, veg and meat.
Not far from the Old Farm House is a site, Ismila, where some archaeologists found a vast collection of tools dating back to stone age man, so eager to indulge in a little African culture we paid the place a visit. Sure enough there were plenty of stone tools but the best bit was, our guide took us to see some stone monoliths that are the result of years and years of erosion. The place reminded me a lot of “Las Medulas” in northern Spain.
After some culture, what we really needed to see was some wild life and fortunately we didn’t have to wait that long as the main road cuts right through Mikumi National Park so there are no park fees unless you want to enter the park proper and stay at a lodge. Now, my experience of free parks in Africa mean just that free of any kind of wild life what so ever, so I was absolutely amazed to see a small group of zebra right next to the road just past the park signs a little further on, we saw giraffe elephant and buffalo along with the usual gazelle. Quite incredible all this wild life for free and yet so close to the main road, but once you pass the park boundary, there is no fence mind you, the landscape is the same, identical in every way apart from the animals. There are of course still baboons and vervet monkeys but I suppose these aren’t so good to eat. Had we not been pushed for time, I would have liked to stop and check out the park as there definitely appeared to be abundant wild life.
Just a quick note on the dangers and annoyances on Tanzanian roads, apart from the usual Africans, mini busses that stop where ever they chose, cyclists and domestic live stock there are the trucks and worse are the “home made” inter city coaches built from old trucks that don’t seem to abide by any rules of the road and travel as fast as possible, flying round the corners on what ever side suits. We narrowly escaped a head on collision with one such coach overtaking a truck on a bend buy pulling of the road just in the nick of time. Oh, and just like the UK there are speed humps every where, but at least the police are friendly and aren’t interested in hassling foreigners.
The landscape following the plains and the park then reverted back to the mountainous theme and not much scope for bush camping. But as luck would have it we found a clearing in the bush, just beyond an earth works site, were the huge baobabs where in bloom. I had assumed this only occurred when the trees were young, but apparently not.
After a succession of “short” driving days we arrived at Dar es Salaam, we had camped on a football pitch 50km outside Dar so we could maximise our arrival with the embassy visits.
Dar es Salaam was far bigger than I had expected and more chaotic in an African way but with a colonial feel about it. As it was early the first stop was the Ugandan embassy which was very efficient with the visa ready in four hours. So with time to kill we went to check out the supermarkets. At last Indian run supermarkets, clean tidy and efficient with all you could possibly want at prices that don’t break the bank except for wine that is, but the local gin is very cheap so no rest for the liver! So after stocking up on Indian snacks, boil in the bag curries and other supplies it was time to collect the passports and try the Rwandan embassy. We were also keen to check whether Blanca’s passport had created any problems as it was now valid for less than six months. Apparently this wasn’t a problem. To enter Rwanda I got a free visa but the Spaniard had to pay, for an extra $25 we could have the visa then and there but opted instead for the three day service and could collect everything on Friday. Now to find the camp site. The closest camp site to Dar is a short ferry ride to what seems like an island but in fact is just a creek except with no easy access around. So the ferry it is. My inshala navigator is getting better and it was quite easy to find the ferry, but being right next to the fish market you could have just followed your nose! The ferry was very African and just like the one in Ghana, but very cheap, so after the cars and trucks it was a case of next as many people as was humanly possible. With the ferry full we set sail for the five minute crossing. Mikadi Beach camp is only 2km from the port, so soon we were set up by the azure sea sipping cold gin and tonics. Ah, there is one more annoyance I forgot to mention “overland trucks” which have a tendency to be full of young antipodeans intending on drinking the bar dry every night before their truck departs at some unearthly hour in the morning so you need to pick your camping spot carefully or you end up getting absolutely no sleep at all……..may be I’m just getting old!
We had hopped to nip across to Zanzibar but as they were in the midst of an election and expecting a lot of trouble, one hundred or so people had died at the last election, combined with the expense we decided not to bother. May be next time!
After a few days the French family went off to explore the north of Tanzania but not before waking us up early one morning with the whole family running around half naked shouting “there is a BIG in the car!” The “BIG” turned out to be a rat that they had inadvertently locked in the car and had spent the night trying to gnaw its way out! We collected our Rwandan visa on Friday a then went straight to the Kenyan embassy, the passports would be ready on Monday so we could leave and continue north. While in Dar we eventually managed to find an internet café fast enough to send our Malawi update and have a superb vegetarian Indian, I would have liked to have tried more Indians, one of my favourite foods, but time was pressing, I imagine I will get plenty of other opportunities as we head north.
With all the visas sorted and no problem with Blanca’s passport we headed off north along the coast to Bagamoyo and Travellers Lodge quite a fancy place and not an overland truck in site! We had the camp site almost to our selves and the restaurant was reasonable so no need to cook. I must say after Zambia, the restaurants in Tanzania have been very good value.
The following morning we headed off for Sadani Game Reserve, Blanca assured me that there was a ferry or a bridge but at the end of the piste, by the river there was just a roundabout to ease turning round. Blanca was keen to save face and have me ford the river with Grommet but the access to the river was far too small and having watched a local wade across with his bicycle above his head and the water at shoulder height I managed to convince her that it was better to turn round and go back. A local game ranger arrived and assured us that a bridge was to be built soon but for us it wouldn’t be soon enough!
Along the way we were flagged down by a couple of Maasai wanting a lift for which we offered an exchange, a photo for a lift but they declined. No photo no lift! Apparently the Maasai have a theory that a photograph somehow steals some of their blood and soul.
Back on the main road, more of a dirt track, we hadn’t gone far before we had to stop, a water tanker was blocking the road, it was stuck in a section that was under repair. I got out for a look and managed to persuade the driver of the grader to free the tanker so we could pass. In the meantime an impatient white local in a new Toyota Land Cruiser decided he couldn’t wait and tried to squeeze by getting stuck and completely cross axled at the same time, which I must say was quite gratifying. There is quite a lot of rivalry between the Toyota and Land Rover camps. I was going to offer to pull him out but thought it would be more fun to watch the Africans do it with the grader. While all this was taking place another Land Cruiser arrived with a load of Africans who gazed on the scene in horror, explained that “The road is not proper!” and promptly turned around and went back the way they came. Back on asphalt once more Blanca was still keen to find the “bush track short cut to the coast,” this as I’ve mentioned before is not easy where the majority of the population only speak Swahili and there are no road signs and the locals think, why would the crazy white man want with a bush road, much better the asphalt road. Consequently I was not at all surprised when we arrived at the gates to a refugee camp, the guard explained in a Swahili English mix that we couldn’t continue and would have to go back to the “main roadi keep lefti and then turn righti.” As it was late we camped in the bush just beyond the village. Blanca was a little spooked by a group of local hunters who passed by with a large gun, so we had a very quick dinner and retired early, inside for a change.
We did eventually find a bush road that took us to the coast and Pangani, the scenery was beautiful and worth the search, but the track, well I couldn’t help think what it would be like if the black clouds above brought forth a deluge! We dropped down to the coast and were once again in one of Tanzania’s vast sisal plantations with the plants stretching as far as the eye could see.
We camped just outside Pangani at the Peponi Holiday Resort right on the beach. It was a perfect spot and no overlander trucks, it was just a pity that it started raining the day after we arrived. All the same it was quiet place to relax and the food was cheap so I didn’t have to cook in the rain. Here we met up again with Edouard and Sandrine, the French couple travelling in their Toyota, who we had previously met in Malawi. There was also a German couple travelling south on a very well prepared KTM motor bike, well who would expect less of the Germans. We also met Rob a South African in a Land Rover TD5 who runs a couple of lodges in Botswana and writes for a S.A 4x4 magazine in a similar way to Vince Cobbly in the LRO back in the UK. So many hours were spent talking Land Rovers………..
After a few days fighting against the rain it was time to move on and catch a glimpse of Mt Kilimanjaro. We offered a lift in to Tanga to couple of backpackers, Simon from New Zealand and his wife Nadine from France and they foolishly accepted. As it had been raining the road was like wet icing so when I saw the opportunity to overtake a truck, everything got a little “pear shaped!” resulting in poor Grommet travelling side ways along the ditch….. Time to try the repaired central diff lock and we were quickly back on the road the only problem was when we arrived in Tanga and asphalt once more the diff lock wouldn’t disengage! With a lot of asphalt driving ahead of us, I felt it prudent to fix it now, rather than continue, so we pulled in to a petrol station and set to work. I think the security guard confused buy the sight of a white man trying to fix his car thought it was a raid and rushed off to fetch his gun and kept a close eye on us. With a bit of work I finally managed to get the diff to disengage so that we could proceed and just in the nick of time before it started raining again.
The diff lock problem had held us up a bit so we couldn’t make it all the way to Kilimanjaro in a day so we broke the journey at the “Tembo Campsite” just after another vast sisal plantation.
Generally the campsites have been so cheap in Tanzania at £1.50 to £2.50 a head its almost pointless to waste the fuel searching for a suitable place in the bush.
The following day we arrived at “Coffee Tree Village Campsite” at Marangu. Poor Grommet really struggled to make the climb to 1800m coughing and spluttering all the way, I’m glad we didn’t opt to drive to the top. I’m beginning to suspect, the problem to be water or another contaminate in the fuel, as the problem only really occurs on very steep climbs with poor quality petrol. The camp site was more like a very well tended garden with plants and shrubs everywhere. It reminded me a lot of my parents garden in Surrey, and it seemed a shame to drive across the carpet like lawn. The price was ok, there was power available for the fridge and of course, weather permitting a view of the mountain. Edouard and Sandrine were already there, the mountain was covered in cloud and it was raining again which probably explains why the area is “suspiciously” green! That evening Bernard his wife Sonia and her sister Anny, some more French people we had met in Malawi, arrived with fresh cray fish for all. The poor things (the cray fish) were then barbequed, still it was a rare treat, French cuisine in the shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro, David our gourmet friend in London would have been proud! There was even a competition to produce the best mayonnaise between the French…. Following a night of more rain we awoke at six to find the mountain completely clear of cloud so leaving the French to their breakfast we grabbed our cameras and headed off up the road for a better view. What a fantastic sight, the Kilimanjaro with its snow covered peak devoid of cloud, but not for long as no sooner had we finished our little photo session and the clouds returned once again to obscure the peak once more. The French were still in the middle of their breakfast when we returned with the bad news that they had missed their chance. As there were more black rain clouds on their way we had breakfasts, said “bon voyage” and headed off.
Rather than take the asphalt road all the way to Arusha, we opted instead to turn off and take a back road that passes between Mt Kilimanjaro and Mt Meru, skirting Arusha National Park on the chance of seeing some wildlife. The plan as these things always do, started well, the asphalt gave way to a reasonable gravel road but then we had to turn off………the muddy track gave way to grass savannah and no track at all! As luck would have it, a Land Rover had passed that way just before we arrived so we followed in his tracks in the hope that he had come from the direction we were heading. It wasn’t long before we were in the middle of no where passing by small Maasai villages cutting across dry river beds with not a soul in site apart from the odd Maasai with their goats and cattle. The scenery was spectacular and stunning but no wild life. Every now and then the track would reappear and on occasion would be well graded to reassure us that we were travelling in the right direction before disappearing again the way things do here in Africa. At one point I’d stopped to reconnoitre the route through a dry river bed when we were approached by an elderly Maasai woman wanting a lift. So Blanca climbed in to the back and the woman took the hot seat hanging on, as though her life depended on it, until we arrived at her village. She was very gratefull for the lift (and to still be alive) thanking us in Swahili before heading off home.
In Arusha, at Shopright we encountered the French people yet again, who bored with the rain had left Kilimanjaro, and were now like us stocking up with supplies.
25km outside Arusha we were going to camp at Snake Park but finding it full of overlander trucks, dry, dusty and with a water shortage and Blanca wasn’t that convinced with the idea of all those snakes, so we headed back up the road a bit to the “Mesarani Oasis” an African run place with camping and a strange German feel about the place. It turned out that the owner had been married to a German. We had the place to ourselves so I could get on with servicing Grommets breaks while Blanca could do the washing. The food and camping were cheap so we could treat ourselves a little. While checking the front breaks I discovered the cause of a little wheel wobble that had recently manifested itself. One of the 101 unique track rod ends was shot and would need to be replaced, fortunately I’d got with me a repair kit from Jonathan at Crozier 4x4, but of course the kit comes with no instructions and is a generic kit with more parts than you need so an interesting couple of hours followed, trying to take the old one apart and replace the worn out bits with those from the kit. We now had brakes, revitalised steering and clean clothes.
The next stop was the Ngorongoro Crater. The road to the gate was new courtesy of the Japanese, I suppose all those Toyota sales have to account for something. In order to maximise on our time in the crater we camped just outside so that we could enter the following morning at 9.30, with a 24 hour pass meant that we would have to exit the following day by 9.30 in order to avoid paying for a second day. After getting our permit and the climb to the rim, the view that awaits is astounding. Below on the crater floor, herds of animals swarm like ants. It was hard to believe that we were actually here at a place I had seen featured countless times on wild life programs. We had paid the extra $30 to allow us to drive down in to the crater it was like entering a magical place, a small microcosm frozen in time. It’s not actually that big at about 20km wide, but what is incredible is the variety of habitats, grasslands, swamps, lakes and forests which in contrast to the outside are all teaming with wildlife. Herds of wildebeest and buffalo were having mini migrations while nearby spotted hyena cooled off in one of the pools left by the recent rains. We spent the day driving between the different eco systems one of our favourites was a hippo pool, were the hippos were in the habit of rolling on to their backs in the water with their short stubby legs in the air. After our experiences in Zambia with Elephants, Blanca “the brave” has tried to give them a very wide birth. This proved quite difficult to do when you need to use the toilet and there is a big bull elephant behind……and when we were camping one came strolling past as we were preparing dinner, I’ve never seen the Spaniard move so fast in to the relative safety of Grommet. Wile in the crater we must have picked up a slow puncture as we were making the very steep accent we were flagged down by a Land Rover full of Maasai who pointed out the problem, with no place to stop there was nothing for it but to persevere, as luck would have it, we arrived at the campsite on the crater rim with just enough air to spare. In the morning we were up very early and left without even having breakfast, which is almost unheard of, and headed for the exit gate and the Serengeti for another wild life feast. I guess from the state of the road the Japanese don’t go to the Serengeti, it was in an appalling state, very badly corrugated. The corrugations were so bad they would take control of the Grommet throwing him across the piste. It was just after we had stopped to help Edouard and Sandrine whose roof rack was self destructing due the vibration, when I noticed a horrible noise coming from Grommet’s transmission. Fearing the worse I stopped and had a look underneath, one of the universal joints on the front prop shaft had broken and was missing a bearing cap. As the gate was only a few kms away, I made the decision to continue risking further damage and try and reach the exit gate before our permit expired. We arrived bang on the dot, so while Blanca went to deal with the paperwork, I set to and removed the front prop shaft to better survey the damage. It wasn’t too bad but would need to be replaced before we could continue. Unfortunately I had used all my spare uj’s in Lusaka but I did have a smaller uj for a SII Land Rover that I’d neglected to leave in Spain. It would have to do, but what to do about the gap between the bearing cap and the cir-clip, thank goodness for araldite. So I changed the bearing with the aid of a “G” clamp and filled the gap with araldite watched by various groups of tourists and their guides on their five star tours. By one we were ready to go and on to the plains of the Serengeti. As we had narrowly avoided paying the $150 vehicle charge for the Ngorongoro and the Serengeti we could afford to spend a little more time and allowed our selves two days. I’d been told by an overland truck driver not to expect to see many animals as they were still in the north and the Maasai Mara. But the first thing which struck me was how green every thing was, along with the sheer size of the place, grassy plains a bright emerald green stretching as far as the eye could see, interspersed with forest and fringed by small hills. What a fantastic place, the Africa I’d been searching for, enormous herds of wildebeest, buffalo and zebra on the move feasting on the new grass as they go. Forest full of giraffe interspersed with troops of baboon, occasionally we would stray across a lion fat from feasting on the assorted array of wild life. Most of the lion appeared to be solitary apart from two males we encountered, but I suppose with all this pray just a claw away, who needs to share. We were very lucky one morning to spot a pair of cheetah who where resting behind a clump of trees they were pointed out by one of the tour guides and were very difficult to see but the odd flick of a tail or ear. What was needed was a catalyst to get them to move and this by chance took the form of a troop of approaching baboon, who had no space on their turf for a couple of cats. It was just what was needed and the cheetahs broke cover and headed for the hills to the sound of clicking cameras. On our second day in the Serengeti we headed off along the western corridor and a special camp site, as this was $40 as opposed to $20, we were expecting showers, toilets, etc, all we had to do was find the local ranger. “Special” camping actually turned out to be a pile of fire wood in the middle of the bush away from everyone. Alone in the bush surrounded by wild animals and in this case a small river full of hippo and crocodile, Blanca’s worst nightmare! The rangers advice sensing Blanca’s concern was to suggest a big fire! So my first task was to set the fire before even opening the tent. We retired to bed and were lulled to sleep by the snorting of the hippo and the sound of distant lion and hyena. This was definitely “special” camping! We left the Serengeti the following day still buzzing with the sights and sounds of the past few days.
Just outside the park we camped at the Kijereshi Tented Camp were we relaxed by the pool, we were the only guests so they opened a room for us to use and shower, in the evening the chef prepared a menu just for us. Oh, the hard life of the overlander!
Kijereshi is on a short cut to the asphalt road to Mwanza and Lake Victoria.
To my surprise the bush repair to the prop shaft was holding up well and saw us all the way to Mwanza were I managed to pick up the right parts at the Land Rover main dealer there. In Mwanza we camped at the yacht club right on the banks of Lake Victoria as there is really no other option in town, still it was clean, tidy and peaceful and with just a handful of small boats was not quite like the clubs in Luanda, Angola. I set to work and changed the uj on the prop shaft and repaired the puncture but missed a pin hole so the tyre was still not holding air but with our visa due to run out it would have to wait until Kigali, Rwanda for a second look.
We took the ferry, well more like a landing craft, from Mwanza across the creek to Kamanga. We were back on rough African bush track not that the local coaches seemed to care as they took corners at high speed “drifting” out the back in a rally style. It’s no wonder the passengers peer at us wide eyed from the windows probably from fear as opposed to surprise at seeing the white man.
With our “safaris” in the parks poor Grommet was no longer blue but a light shade of brown, which I think helped to conceal our whereabouts as we bush camped just before the border with Rwanda, in an area so notorious for bandits that vehicles travel at night with a police escort! We survived the night intact and awoke to find ourselves surrounded by cattle with huge horns. Blanca adopted bullfighter mode but the sight of her emerging from the tent frightened them all off.
We had a really enjoyable time in Tanzania a huge country full of surprises but the people, we found them to be a bit on the shy side and rather serious which we have attributed mainly to the fact that few people speak English, the main language taught at primary school being kswahili. It was good to see a strong Land Rover presence the majority of which appear to be very over worked SIII’s which goes to proves the longevity of the marque, but few of the more recent models.
The national parks were a delight and I can’t put in to words what a wonderful time we spent there it was like the discovery channel coming to life all around us. The other big surprise was how affordable Tanzania is, well apart from the parks, that is. But when you consider that the average tourist probably spends more money on their “safari suit” than they do in park fees for their two week stay, all in all its great value. If you are planning a trip and want a taste of real Africa, give Tanzania a try but if you really want to explore the place make sure you pack a very detailed map!
The Kapalogwe Water Falls
More bush fires
Time for tea
Long Vehicle/Short Vehicle
Camping with Baobabs
Mikumi National Park
Mikumi National Park
Ferry at Dar
Beach at Dar
Camping at Dar
Back on the ferry
What, no bridge!
A feast for a Frenchman
Coffee Tree Camp
Were did I leave my cows!
Hyena cooling off
Hippo, party trick
Lots of wildlife
It’s behind you!
Swapping the “UJ”
Quick make a fire!
Lake Victoria Yacht Club
Yet another ferry
Rocks in the Lake